2016-03.2: Brake rigging, part 2

10 Mar 2016

TMTV
Rating: 
4.789475
Average: 4.8 (19 votes)
Summary: 
26:01 - Mar 2016 Act II - Underbody brake rigging: 2 (2016)
Description: 

A TrainMasters TV exclusive series. Trevor Marshall hosts, with techniques for super-detailing, painting and weathering locomotives and rolling stock from award-winning modelers across North America.  In this episode, professional modeler Pierre Oliver shares his techniques for adding detailed brake piping to freight car underframes.  Part two of two. Click here to watch part one.

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Act III: Dave Petty's Midwest Central

Go to Act III

NOTES:

Here are links for the tools Pierre Oliver refers to:

Tweezers;
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06525521

Drill bits;
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/85778967

Chain nose pliers;
https://www.riogrande.com/Product/swanstrom-needle-chain-nose-pliers/111303

Flush cutters;
https://www.riogrande.com/Product/swanstrom-super-flush-cutters/111706

The Dremel is the smallest battery powered unit offered by Dremel.

Comments

There are actually two devices to allow for slack adjustment. The one mentioned, allowing movement of the end of the dead lever, is for gross adjustment. There is also an automatic slack adjustor. It is contained within the center rod, between the two levers. If you look at the prototype photos, this rod looks thicker than the others. This is a hollow sleve and inside of it is a mechanism with springs, threaded rods, nuts, and cluthes that automatically adjust the brake rigging. This is to accomodate for the wear on the brake shoes and wheels while the car is rolling along. 

When the brake shoes are worn out and replaced, the car knocker uses a bar to push them away from the wheel. This also compresses the slack adjustor. The first time the brakes are applied, the slack adjustor activates to insure proper travel in the brake piston and rigging.

This can be modeled by using a larger wire on the center rod, or adding a small sleve over part of the center rod.

Tim

Tim,

The device you describe is a more modern item. Seen in the '70s and on. The rigging I demonstrated is from before that era.

Pierre

Looking forward to that K Brake episode.  A couple thoughts - how about posting a few links in the show notes?  I have the Cal Scale diagram (for K brakes) in my box of brake detail parts, and refer to it with each installation.  Here's the info page from Bowser, where you can still purchase the Cal Scale parts:

http://www.bowser-trains.com/images/Misc/Cal%20Scale/Cal-Scale-Frt-Cars1...

I found a large lot on eBay that included both brass and plastic parts, in addition to white metal and even wood cylinders from early HO kits.  The cost was far less than buying the sets new, but these deals aren't always available. 

Also in a future episode, can you do end details, like air hoses, coupler lift bars (including Carmer levers), the various brake wheel types, etc.? 

I appreciate this sort of detailed look at detail parts - another reason Trainmasters TV is terrific!

Galen

TMTV Station Agent's picture

End details?  There's a bit on that coming soon.  And in April 2016 we'll be looking at ladders.

Barry

TrainMasters tV producer

Great series and timely too for me since I am building some S scale resin kits.

Any chance we can get a list of tools used and where to purchase the same?  I am particulary interested in the high end tweesers and chainnose pliers.  I presume you are also using the smallest battery operated dremel.

Thanks,

John Gibson 

John,

Here's some links for the tools I refer to;

Tweezers; http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06525521

drill bits; http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/85778967
 

Chain nose pliers; https://www.riogrande.com/Product/swanstrom-needle-chain-nose-pliers/111303

Flush cutters; https://www.riogrande.com/Product/swanstrom-super-flush-cutters/111706

And, yes, the Dremel is the smallest battery powered unit offered by Dremel. Products vary from the US and Canada.

 At Yarmouth Model Works, we are developing a whole new line of etched Carmer cut levers, which will surpass anything previously offered.

 

Pierre Oliver

Thanks Pierre.  I don't suppose those cut levers are going to be in another scale like S for example?  :-)   Like your buddy Trevor, I am an S scale modeler.

 

~ John
 

 

Very intresting adheivses applicator. What type of metal do you have in the pin vise? I have been useing a piece of .020" round brass wire. Very good detial clinic. thank you.

Leonard Lee Davis

 

tpmarshall's picture

Hi Leonard:

I'm not sure what Pierre uses, but I do the same thing and I simply cut the head off a straight pin from our sewing box and use that. When it gets covered in CA, I use an old single-edged razor blade to carefully cut away most of the CA, followed by an old emery board to sand off the rest. If the pin can't be saved, I simply replace it - but each pin lasts several years...

Cheers!

- Trevor