2016-01.5: Weathering with Gary Christensen, part 3

Still like the bantering between Gary and Joe as they work along....teaching us techniques. Gary, you have taught me NOT to quit at just step 1 or 2, to keep layering the weathering on to get the desired effect. Love this series, and hate to see that it has come to an end. Joe...I think we need one more on just the wheels, I know you asked some great questions at the end about the wheels...but would like to see Gary in action. And for Pete's sake...somebody buy Gary a wheel mask jig ! Gary, I use to mask just the treads, but I would use pinstripe tape so that I would not have to spend the time cutting tape to width to mask the treads, makes to fairly easy.

Michael

I like the two different perspectives of Gary in this series and Mike C in his new series. Gary needs a wheel mask and Mike needs a cheap palette to contain his paint and powder, but neither needs help in describing and executing their techniques! Keep them coming.

I really enjoy watching these weathering tutorial videos! Absolutely premium content from Trainmasters TV and MRH!

Gary, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!

I have really enjoyed watching Gary at work, hopefully he will be back for an encore?

Between him amd Mike Confalone they cover a lot of techniques to help us amateurs get into weathering. In my opinion just these two series have been worth the subscription fee.

Weathering is not where I am at the moment, but Gary your tutorials are fantastic. You need to do more of these videos as my attention never wavered. 

A few more how-tos and Trainmasters will have a DVD. I am off to view part 3.  Thank you for taking the time to show us your gifted talents.--jd

Another great weathering clinic!!  If you want to stock up on Dulcote, buy it at Hobby Lobby with your 40% off coupon.  You can get the app for your smart phone and you can use one a day.

Best, Andy Keeney

I'm truly having fun with this. I got a couple of inexpensive Accurail hoppers and tested this technique. The fade took me about 50 minutes to complete all four sides. It looked good (better in camera and MUCH more subtle with naked eye). The dust took 15 minutes all four sides and came out well. I am not sure I softened the dust correctly after stippling on, but it came out pretty good! 

Thanks for the new technique I was able to add in my weathering toolkit!

Dave

I thought the picture of the caboose in the last few seconds was a pic of a real caboose.  Guy is becoming a legend

this is part 3...where's the rest?

Type in "Gary" in the search box on the video library page, and you'll find the others.

Cheers!

The finished weathering of this caboose looks really amateurish.

The finished weathering of this caboose looks really amateurish.

While I might agree Gary has overdone the dust fade along the bottom somewhat, calling his work "really amateurish" is harsh. Using words like that you're critiquing the modeler rather than the modeling, which implies Gary is inept or incompetent, and is quite unkind. I'll assume you didn't mean Gary is incompentent with your statement and so give you the benefit of the doubt.

Also, keep in mind working under the crtitical eye of a studio camera is high pressure and you almost never do your best work. Until you've been there in front of a camera yourself and felt that pressure (I have, and it can be stressful), it's best to cut folks some slack and ease up on being too harsh. I do my best work at my workbench rather than when I'm in front of a camera, and that's true for most people.

The photo we originally referenced has disappeared off the web, so here it is taken off my iPad we were using in this video segment:

Finally, if you want to start talking about amateurish, take a look at this photo below ... notice how poorly done the lettering is -- they didn't even bother trying to hide the decal film! The drybrushing with the gray is very streaky and blotchy.

This would never pass on a model railroad, yet it's a prototype photo!

So before we get too upity in our criticism, it's best to ramp it down a notch and remember there's often a prototype for just about any model finish you will find. And one of the last terms I would ever use in polite company to describe a fellow modeler's work is amateurish. Phrases like "needs to be more subtle", "could use more blending", and the like suggest ways to improve without sounding elitist -- but using the term "amateurish" implies you think the modeler is incompetent or inept and feels very off-putting.