In a follow-up to his September 2016 clinic, Pierre Oliver demonstrates building a #10 curved turnout using Fast Tracks lasercut TwistTies.
Also see part 1: Handlaying turnouts with a fixture.
Own a copy of this video for just $3.49
Act IV: 3D Printing at home ...
Go to Act IV
Sat, 10/22/2016 - 02:06
Just curious - how well does that curved turnout work without the guard rails?
TMTV Station Agent
Sat, 10/22/2016 - 05:19
Good eye! Of course you'll need those. We probably should have mentioned it specifically, but installing them was covered in last month's Backshop Clinic using the Fast Tracks fixture. The positions for them are etched into the ties so they're easy to,locate. We also prefabricated a lot of the parts in this session so that it didn't take an hour to get through the process. We recommend a viewing of the September 2016 Backshop Clinic for anyone who hasn't seen it.
Barry, TrainMasters TV producer
Sat, 10/22/2016 - 15:38
I am guessing you handlay this track at the location on the layout rather than at the bench. Or can you pull the spikes and hope it stays together from the bench to the layout ? I make my curvered turnouts at the bench on fast track paper templets with the PC ties spiked to a piece of drywall than solder the rail but you are limited to the radius curves they have available with their preformed ties when glueing to same. I do have a #6 straight fixture and point /frog tool making the frog assm easier. Zeke
Tue, 10/25/2016 - 18:49
Not to be critical but I noticed that the throwbar was not up tight against the bottom of the point rails when soldered. I've used a small screwdriver flat blade and slid it under the end of the throwbar (as Pierre did with the spike) and pushed it in until the throwbar was solidly against the bottom of the stock rail. I did both ends of the throwbar at the same time so the throwbar is soldered in place at the correct angle to the bottom of the rails.
I also watched Tim's video on the Fast Tracks website and he used a small piece of paper the width of a tie and placed it down between the stock and point rail and then out to the side between the throwbar and the bottom of the stock rail. This does two things, it keeps you from soldering the throwbar and point rail to the stock rail and also builds in a very small amount of space between the throwbar and stock rails which allows the points to move without binding. I found that parchment paper that my wife uses in baking worked well and have a piece of it on my workbench and use small pieces of it when I'm soldering the points to the throwbar. I actually fold it over once so it doubles the thickness of the paper and this seems to work very well for me. Hope that all makes sense!! :-) Best, Andy K
Fri, 10/28/2016 - 10:16
Has anyone besides me thought about using a thin sheet of evergreen plastic as a backer for a turnout-
basically a foundation for ballast, ties, and rails, - sort of a custom "fastrax" -
instead of kissing your hard work goodbye when making layout changes, or moving, you only need to loosen th entire
section and relocate it, the balast and glue mixture aren't bonding your work to the subroadbed-
Visit Our Blog
515 Willow Ave.
Woodburn, OR 97071
+1 (800) 920 6020
TMTV is the premium video site of MRH magazine. (IMH)
Visit us at mrhmag.com